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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What bullet weight, caliber, manufacturer, etc. does everyone use for big game hunting? Do you prefer premium or regular ammo?

I use 150 or 165gr core-lokt or power points for my '06.
For my Ithaca 37, I use 385gr sabot slugs @ 1900fps that's 3086 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle, damn do they leave a mark on your shoulder though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay, it seems the previous question is not very popular. How about his one then: How do you sight in your rifle? Do you go for a fixed yardage (100yds, 200yds, etc.) or do you subscribe to the maximum point blank range school of thought?
 

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To answer both your questions, I shoot a .308 for deer. I use 150 gr. core-lok.
I generally sight-in once a year prior to hunting season at 100 yds. I sight for direct hit bullseye.

Beyond 100yds. my consistency drops considerably. I feel quite confident in being able to lethally kill a deer beyond that to some degree but sighting in my groupings expand. So I stick at 100 yds.

For Maine woods hunting, that's the ticket.

I have another question that has been asked me many times before. We'll see if others know the answer.

If you do not have a place to shoot that is 100 yds., what is the yardage you can shoot at that gives as close to the same results as 100 yds.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
According to some redfield sightin targets I have if you are dead on @ 25yds you should be about 1" high @ 100yds for most centerfire cartidges. But you have to remember to make windage an delevation adjustments that are 4x what you want the bullet to do.
 

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i shoot 180 Gr fusions out of a 300 WSM and zero at 100 yards and memorize the the trajectory in 50 yard incriments out to 300 yards
 

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I use 130 grain core lokt for my Rem 7400 .270, but I think after hearing what the gun dealers are saying about this new federal "power shock" ammo and the price they're selling it for I may switch to a 140 grain bullet and zero at 100yards. With the .270 I'm looking at about 8.5 inches of drop at 300yards so anything I'm going to see I aim at the deer, just a little high on the shoulder out at 300 yards.
 

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I like to cook up '06 loads with the 130gn Barnes X with 50 gns of Hogden Varget powder. Slings the pellet out at around 3400 fps and hits like a 220 gn lead/copper.
 

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.243..100 Gr. Winchester Super X... First zeroed at 26 yards.
Checked and adjusted to 2 inches high at 100 yards.
3 inch groups around the center off the hood of my suv at 300 yards.
Close enough for me.
Always hits the groundhogs from 100 feet out.
:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:
 

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i use rem round nose 180's outa my '06 pump carbine... dead on @ 100 yds
my rem 700 in 300 win mag i am shooting some accubounds.. pricey but she is a shooter, i have it hitting a bout 1.5 high @ 100yds....
 

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K6 I think with a little searching around you can figure out what distance you need to shoot in order to have a 100 yard zero. It all depends on how far above your barrel that your scope is mounted. If you are zeroed at 100 yards that means that your scope is angled downwards to intercept the 100 yard target depending on the bullet drop at the distance. At 25 yards your bullet should hit somewhere below the bullseye (although minimal) but if it is zeroed at 25 your downward angle is greater than at 100 yards assuming your scope is mounted 1.5-2" above the barrel and it is a flat shooting cartridge. I've come across these charts before and it is based on the ballistics of each caliber and distance above the barrel that the scope is mounted. I hope you all have a headache after reading this.
 

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I roll my own loads:
The 45-70 gets a 350 grain flat nose Sierra.
The .35 Rem gets a 200 grain flat nose Speer.
The .308 uses a 150 grain Sierra spire point.
The 30-06 uses a 180 grain Sierra match king.
the Rem 22-250 varmint gun gets a 63 grain boat-tail Hornady.
 
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